Used motorcycle test ride: what to check

Before you start

Settle the terms before you travel, not at the curb. Ask the seller whether a test ride is possible at all, who is insured for it, whether they want a deposit or your ID held while you ride, and which route you will take. Insurance cover for a rider who does not own the bike differs by policy and by country, so neither of you should assume it. If the ride is off, ask the seller to ride the bike past you.

Bring full riding gear and your license. A seller who asks to see it is being sensible. Only ride a bike you are licensed for and comfortable on - an unfamiliar, powerful bike is not the place to find your limits.

Plan the viewing in daylight on a dry day, and ask the seller not to start the engine before you arrive. Keep the used bike inspection tool open on your phone so you can note what you find as you go.

Standing checks and the cold start

Before you ride anywhere, check the things that make the ride safe: tire pressures against the label or the manual, tire condition, front and rear brake lever feel, and a throttle that snaps shut on its own. A spongy brake lever, a throttle that sticks or a tire that is flat or damaged ends the test ride there. Brakes and tires are safety systems; faults in them are for a qualified mechanic, not a quick fix in the seller’s driveway.

Put a hand on the engine. If it is warm, the seller has already started it, and you have missed the most revealing minute. Start it yourself from cold. Listen for how quickly it fires, whether the idle settles, whether there is a rattle that fades as it warms or one that stays, and whether smoke clears or keeps coming. Then let it idle up to operating temperature while you do the other standing checks. Watch the gauge and, on a liquid-cooled bike, wait for the cooling fan to switch on.

With the bike on a stand, check the suspension and steering. Push down on the front and the rear: each should compress smoothly and return once, not bounce. Look at the fork tubes for oil. With the front wheel off the ground, turn the bars slowly from lock to lock; the steering should move smoothly, with no notch at the center.

On the road: clutch, gearbox and brakes

Start gently. Pull away a few times and feel how the clutch takes up - it should be smooth and progressive, not grabby or juddering.

To check for clutch slip, ride in a higher gear at low revs and roll on the throttle firmly. Revs and speed should rise together. If the revs climb without the speed following, the clutch is slipping.

Shift up and down through every gear. Each change should engage cleanly. A gear that jumps out under load, or false neutrals between gears, means gearbox wear; on many bikes the gearbox shares the engine cases, so the repair is a major one. At a standstill, check that you can find neutral.

Brake firmly in a straight line, at low speed, with nothing behind you: front and rear separately, then together. The bike should stop straight without pulling, the lever should not pulse, and you should hear no grinding.

Steering, suspension and electrics

On a straight, empty road, relax your grip on the bars. The bike should track straight. A pull to one side can come from a bent fork, a misaligned wheel or frame damage. A wobble or headshake at speed is not something to explore further on a test ride: slow down smoothly and have a mechanic look at the steering and chassis.

Over bumps, the suspension should absorb and settle, not pogo or crash through its travel. Back at the seller’s, test every light, indicator, the horn, all switches and the dash. Watch for warning lights that stay on after start-up. Then look under the bike and around the engine for fresh leaks - a hot engine shows weeps that a cold one does not.

By bike type

• Enduro and MX: a road test ride may not be possible on an unregistered competition bike. A ride on private ground with the owner’s permission still shows clutch, gearbox and suspension; read the hour meter before and after.
• Chain, belt or shaft: listen for chain noise under load, feel for snatch on and off the throttle, and on a shaft bike note any clunk when you shift or roll on.
• Electric: note the state of charge and the displayed range before and after, against the distance you rode. Check that regenerative braking and all ride modes work.
• Scooters: pull away from a stop several times; judder or slipping usually points to a worn CVT belt or clutch.

When to call a mechanic

If the brakes, steering or suspension felt wrong, if the bike pulled to one side, or if the clutch slipped or a gear jumped out, get a qualified mechanic’s opinion before you buy. A pre-purchase inspection usually costs less than any one of those repairs. For the full buying sequence, from paperwork to payment, see what to check before buying a used motorcycle.

After you buy

Make the checks you did today a habit. Garagely’s pre-ride check is a tap-to-tick list for tire pressure, spokes, fasteners and controls, with any part due for service shown first. Look up your model in the motorcycle catalog for its service intervals.